Panda to Elephant Sands 150kms

150 is a big number in the heat, and we’re not used to either yet. But there are elephants…

The gold in the day is the dawn and a couple of hours afterwards. It’s cool, there are few vehicles on the road, and you’re feeling fresh. Like anywhere else the dawn offers nothing but potential every day. And then there’s the African sunset…

Early in the morning a big bull crosses in front of Aleena and I, and as the day wears on there are many more. Tallis says the big bulls, who are generally solitary, aren’t too dangerous because they know they’re big, and have nothing to prove. The breeding herds of Mamas and babies are a different story. The adolescents are still with them, and like all adolescents, they’re just cruising to prove themselves. Bad news if they choose you.

I decide to take the truck into camp from lunch. Many have gone before me in these first three days and I still have two more days before rest day. Besides, I’ve heard great things about Elephant Sands, and I have a room waiting..

As it turns out Sharita is herding us off the road anyway. A breeding herd has been hanging around five kms from camp and she has told the crew to get us into camp.

Elephant Sands is a laid back little resort of cabins built around a watering hole that elephants have been using probably for millennia. A little resort isn’t going to stop them.

Hot shower, and when I come onto my balcony there’s an elephant. Right there.

Relaxed tropical style bar by the water. Gin and tonics, and elephants taking turns at the water hole – dinner and a show!

They clearly are respecting a hierarchy. As each approaches, they wait respectfully for the more senior to move off.

Sometimes, as below, one gets a little too familiar and is swiftly reprimanded